Wednesday, January 3, 2018

January 2018 Meeting

Southern Oregon Fly Tyers
Meeting on Tuesday, January 9, 2018
6:00 PM

8401 Old Stage Road, Gold Hill


The January SOFT meeting will feature a demonstration by Cathy Hamilton.  Rather than tying flies that she's tied many times before, Cathy will pay tribute to Dave by doing her best to tie three of the flies that he most enjoyed tying at the shows they attended together.  Cathy will have some stories to share about how Dave came to tie these flies.  If you wish to tie along, bring some tying thread -- black 8/0 and red UTC 70 (or any red 8/0, if you don't have UTC), along with any of the materials you may have from the recipes.  Cathy will bring some of the hooks and beads, as well as some of the more "exotic" materials used in the flies she'll be tying.  

BLOOD WORM
HOOK: 2X heavy wire, 2X short, 2X wide gap – TMC 2457, Dai-Riki 135, Daiichi 1120; size 12
BEAD: 8/0 seed bead – transparent red, silver-lined
THREAD: 8/0 red
BODY: Spanflex – red – Medium, cut 2 ¼  inches long
COLLAR: Rhea – dyed red

Smash the barb and place the seed bead on the hook.  Lay in a thread base right behind the bead, going back 1/16”.  Tie in one strand of Spanflex right behind the bead on top of the thread base on the top of the hook.  Attach a hackle plier to the other end of the Spanflex.  Attach a dubbing twister to the hackle plier and give two good spins, creating a tight twist.  Grab the twisted Spanflex, leaving 1/8” of the tag end.  Tie in the tag end right behind the bead, keeping a finger inside the loop of twisted Spanflex.  Replace your finger with a bodkin, pull it back to straighten out the loop, grab the end of the loop between your thumb and index finger, and pull out the bodkin.  Release the loop, allowing the Spanflex to twist on itself, thus creating a furled body.  If it turns into an ugly knot, re-insert a bodkin in the twisted loop right behind the tie-in point and slide it back to the end of the loop to straighten it out, and try it again.  Position the thread 1/16” behind the head and tie in one “herl” of Rhea by the butt on top of the hook, and take one half turn over the top of the hook.  Wrap 3 turns of the Rhea clockwise round the thread, creating a rope.  Wrap the rope forward to the bead and tie off.  Whip finish behind the bead and apply head cement.

A note about the materials: Transparent silver-lined seed beads can be found in bead shops and some craft stores.  Spanflex is a rubber-leg- like material.  Rhea is like a very fine ostrich plume.  Spanflex and Rhea are available from fly shops or through mail order.




DAVE’S REAL SKUNK


Bead Head: 1/8” black metal bead or 8/0 glass seed bead – translucent green with red center
Hook: Daiichi 1560, Mustad 3906B, TMC 3761; Size 8-12.
Lead: .015 Lead Wire for size 12 hook
Thread: Black 8/0.
Tail: Black Guard Hairs from a Skunk skin.
Rib: Fine Copper Wire.
Body: Black Fur (Guard Hairs and Undercoat) from Skunk skin, Dubbed.
Hackle: Black CDC (Optional).
Collar: Black Ostrich Hurl.


Smash hook barb and put bead on hook.  Wrap 8 wraps of lead on hook for metal bead, or 4 wraps for glass bead, and slide into the bead.  Cover the lead with wraps of thread and wrap back to the bend of the hook.  Cut a clump of black fur off the skunk skin (about the size of a wood pencil), cutting as close to the skin as possible, and remove the undercoat from the guard hairs.  (Save the undercoat for dubbing the body).  Stack the guard hairs and tie in for the tail.  The length of the tail should be equal to the length of the shank of the hook.  Add the trimmed (waste) guard hairs from the tail to the undercoat for dubbing the body.  Tie in the wire rib on the bottom of the hook.  Dub the undercoat (and trimmings from tail) for the body from the tail toward the beadhead, leaving room for the hackle and collar.  Counterwrap the rib and tie off.  If used, wrap the CDC hackle 1 - 1 1/2 turns.  Wrap the ostrich herl collar (1 strand) 2 - 3 wraps and tie off.  Whip finish, tying off on the bottom of the hook.  Apply a small dab of head cement on the bottom of the hook at the bead.



CRAFT STORE CHIRONOMID

HOOK: Scud; Daiichi 1120, Dai-Riki 135, TMC 2457 – size 12
HEAD: 8/0 seed bead -- red stripes on white
THREAD: UTC 70 red
BODY: Stretch Magic – size .5 mm
GILL: White Antron


Smash the barb, slide the bead onto the hook, and place hook in vise.  Attach tying thread to hook and bind down a wisp of Antron, so most of the material protrudes over the hook eye.  Wrap it down, whip finish and remove bobbin.  Trim off the excess Antron, leaving just a small tuft above the eye of the hook.  Then slide the bead into position and reattach the tying thread right behind it.  Tie on a piece of Stretch Magic right behind the bead, and lash it down the length of the hook, stretching it as you wrap your thread, and ending at the midpoint of the bend of the hook.  Wrap the tying thread back forward, in touching wraps, so that the Stretch Magic and the hook will be completely covered with the thread.  Then wrap the Stretch Magic forward, placing each wrap next to the previous one.  Stretch the Stretch Magic firmly as you start, and gradually reduce the stretch, to create a bit of a taper in the body of the fly.  When you reach the bead, tie off the Stretch Magic with 2 - 3 tight wraps, and cut it as close as possible.  Whip finish and apply head cement to your thread wraps.  


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